Today Helen and I visited Dumaguete Cathedral. We arrived just as a service was finishing so we entered the cathedral and sat down. Well I sat and contemplated; Helen knelt and prayed. Within twenty minutes or so another service started, and we stayed for the duration of that.
Dumaguete Cathedral is the oldest stone built Catholic church on Negros island. Originally built by the Spanish in the sixteenth century, it burnt down in the eighteenth , and was then rebuilt in the early twentieth century. It is dedicated to St Catherine of Alexandria.
Near it is the bell tower, built in 1811. This is a very impressive old building. It used to serve as a means of warning local people of raids by pirates.
The Cathedral is beautiful outside and in. The interior is a wonderful mix of the classical and the contemporary with Doric columns and medieval style stained glass windows co-mingling with a bright interior and modern stained glass. The service is conducted in English apart from the sermon which is a mix of English and Visayan, the language spoken in the Visayas and northern Mindanao. This is Helen’s mother tongue. The priest is youngish, friendly and passionate.
The cathedral is almost full, several hundred people, maybe approaching a thousand. And this is just one of several church services on this Sunday. It is the first time I have seen a traffic jam outside a church when a service ends. The Philippines is the only Christian country in Asia with more than 70% of the population being Catholic. This is a devoutly religious country with church attendance being very high. Catholicism was, of course introduced by the Spanish colonial masters.
The dress of the worshippers is overwhelmingly informal. Most of the men and the vast majority of younger women are dressed in jeans and T-shirts, polo shirts or blouses. The older women tend to wear skirts.
The choir is also informally dressed. They are sitting in the body of the church just below the altar. There is an organist and three young guitarists. The singing and playing has a jazzy feel to it. They all look as if they are thoroughly enjoying themselves.
The priest and his assistants start celebrating the Eucharist. Helen goes up to partake. Celebration is what this service has been about.
I haven’t been in a church in years. The experience is strangely moving.
1 comment:
To clarify: what I intended to say was that I haven't attended a church service in years. I have been inside many churches, having a look at them. They are usually interesting buildings, often of great historical interest.
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